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Want to do a steering stabilizer but can’t decide which, Road Master, Safe T Plus or Trucenter. The passenger side mounting bracket was gone, one tab still bolted in place remained, and the rubber bushing was down the sway-bar arm. Really enjoyed seeing how much improvement can be made at not too high a cost. 2017 Bounder 33C; After white knuckling it for a few months, I had the front and rear anti-sway bars added, then the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer added. Thanks for the upgrade video. As full-timers like you, improved driving performance is a high priority – the swaying can be very unsettling at times, especially on windy days, and it would be worth installing an upgrade to enhance our feeling of comfort and safety, while still being substantially less than the cost of a diesel! You are correct about the difference in the bouncing of the front end. Night-and-day difference in handling. So happy it worked out, we’re still amazed by it, in fact we drove the PCH (CA Highway 1) and I can’t imagine attempting this without the extra stabilizers. I currently have an 04 Revolution on a Freightliner Chassis and it rides and drives great. One handed driving and no more white knuckles! My contact at Fleetwood confirmed the Bounder is on the F-53 chassis. The wind and passing vehicle influence was very much abated. I’m no expert but I believe the secret of the big diesel ride is air bag suspension. I notice the rear ac unit is not directly above the bed. I don’t know why the RV Mfg. My point is, unless I win the lottery, this is the only motorhome I will ever own. Take care and again thanks for the response. Keep it up we love your stuff. Well done. Hi Jason, I typically drive in “Tow Haul” for the engine braking. Hood and one of our favorite towns of Hood River just up the gorge…oh well, I realized after the video went live and once that happens there’s no going back. I just watched this video and started researching sway bars. I assume that you don’t have a sound level meter to do a before and after measurement. We added a 1 1/2 in rear auxiliary stabilizer bar in addition to the rear bar that came with the chassis. Don’t you wish you had all this stuff done before you went to Alaska?? First off thanks for the kind words. For those on a budget the rear sway bar is the biggest bang for the buck. Sadly, I don’t think there’s enough money for Ford to invest a lot of R&D into these chassis. We have all the same issues, which does make it a harrowing ride! Your blog and videos are very helpful and I enjoy the perspective that each of you have. FREE Shipping. When I drove the Tiffin home 2 hours from the dealer I realized that the ride and handling left a lot to be desired. Before you spent 2500( or got it free) on all the stuff, did you do the CHF? As a future RV’er my biggest worry is buying a lemon, which it seems up to now is pretty much 100% of all RV’s. Reading your blogs and watching your videos have helped me alot on deciding on a used coach. Hoping for a change soon. This is not meant to be an instructional manual, but a recount of our experience only. But that down those hooks from above the drivers head space! The rear u-bolts require almost 300 ft/lb of torque. Usually ships within 6 to 10 days. Throw in some arguments here and there. Upon return, I started to research the RV. If you can only do one or the other, get the rear sway bar. The test Class C recently had Roadmaster anti-sway bars installed, so brackets and bushings were still new. I watched more of your video’s last night. Nikki and Jason, The biggest source of noise that I notice is the the roller shades banging against the window frames. This should reduce harshness over bumps. We installed 4 new Koni shocks. It rides like a different vehicle entirely!! I’m sure he will hook you up if you do a review. And kudos to Jason for not micro-managing her driving! Thanks for the update. what we installed on our 2016 Ford F-53 V-10 Gas Motorhome Chassis. The cost of these 4 products from the Roadmaster factory is: $2,102.70 including sales tax. I don’t press the gas hard just let it shift on it’s normal cycle without stressing it and the noise is greatly less and runs smoother. If there is an external spring, that may be the culprit. We truly love him (SeeMore) and were convinced that there was a fix somewhere. My Roadtrek mileage is 17mpg. Hopefully through efforts such as yours and others (like Technomadia) we can count on the industry FINALLY opening their eyes and figuring out that adding a few thousand bucks cost for better components will pay off with more people being happy with their purchase and encouraging more people to go RV’ing. Thanks for the advise to go with the extra rear sway bar first. There may be a way to dampen the sound without altering the device. Awesome update on the Gas RV ride, thanks again! Great! Shoot us a message on Facebook and if we’re out and about we may be able to connect. I think owners of gas RV’s would be much happier with their purchase if the Ford chassis had a more stable ride to begin with. And the other stuff really interesting. I’m excited for you. Our new 2017 Holiday Rambler Vacationer suffered the sway and especially when a tractor trailer was passing on the interstate. We have the 18000# F53 chassis. But the Safe T Plus failed to impress only because it was installed backwards. Having the RV on a lift would make it easier to get leverage on the bolts. We are jealous yet again with all your new toys. Apparently there are similar products for class C motorhomes, certain diesel motorhomes, Super C’s and most Gas RV models (the tech said if you’re in a Freightliner Chassis RV you probably won’t need any of these stabilizers). Powered by WordPress. I watched the mechanic remove the old U bolts and install the new heavier duty longer ones with the new bushings and drove it back to my storage facility without giving it a second thought, a four lane straight road with minimal traffic. I’ll do my best to answer your questions: With a brand new rig with new shocks, new springs and a Bilstein steering stabilizer from the Fleetwood factory….My fingers are crossed that most of my sway problem will be solved with adding the ROADMASTER rear bar. I would argue it is much a matter of safety as comfort. Great video! What are your sources of income to pay for the RV stabilizers, fuel, food, etc? Our small Class C motorhome rocked and rolled at every turn including pulling out of every driveway or parking lot. Very COOL!! I would say…I’m the only driver…”Don’t you feel that?”….I mean what is wrong with this picture. The motion makes it difficult to control the vehicle and creates an unpleasant ride. Supposedly the gas-charged Bilsteins offer much more initial resistance when compressed than the hydraulic Konis which are stiff in rebound but softer in compression. I have found both Roadmaster and Hellwig get great reviews and … And if you did what made you choose the Road Master components? Cheers and we’ll certainly use your Amazon link if we decided to get anything! Ford uses pretty high quality gas pressurized 1.63 Bilstein shock absorbers, so considering our motorhome is brand new I’m not willing to attempt replacing the shocks. Just a point of clarification – you crossed the Columbia river (not Hood River) when you were headed south on 205 out of Vancouver, Washington. These are true F550 chassis and not F53’s as they are not a class A.”. He is a holy terror. Thanks : ). You travel and shoot – someone else puts it all together. Our sway bars, trac-bars and steering stabilizers make that much of a “wow” difference. I run a number of them and have contacts that run some of the largest RV forums. Good deal! The best $400 we have probably spent on the RV. What are the recomended upgrades for drivability? I also noticed there is less movement when going up the steps. We had to add a steering stabilizer bar and now it is very loud. You two are the best! When we got to the FMCA Rally at Madison, WI this summer I visited the booth of 5 Star automotive and after lots of questions and answers they upgraded the programming in my engine computer with a solution. However as far as improving the ride, the bumps etc. Honestly we really like our Tiffin. This might be the perfect option for those who are thinking of adding the rear sway bar alone! I am a advid do it youeself kind of person and a big fan and sympathizer on your “How Not to” videos and wanted to get your advice on upgrades. It’s very interesting & helpful ! We use both because the RV GPS will avoid bridges and such that are not RV friendly and google gives us traffic updates. The front roadmaster is a little less expensive so will be trying that next. But when you no longer have to white knuckle fight your RV in a strong wind, or watch your dishes swapping cupboards when driving into a gas station, you are truly amazed.”. I paid about 1/2 what a new Bounder gas motor home would be. In general it has nothing to do with the RV mfr, they are not allowed to remove the factory sway bar as it will alter the chassis and thus the warranty. Quite a jump! You would think that would be enough to keep you cool in the summer. All I can say is it’s not going to be done at camping world. Cannot wait to see what you do with gas engine noise in the ford chasis with v10 engine, The stabilizers ABSOLUTELY helped, it’s like night and day. Installed the RM-1139-147 Rear Sway Bar, RM-1139-176 Front Sway Bar and RM-RBK24-RSSC Reflex Steering Stabilizer for Class C Motorhomes. diane, They’re just plastic so they’re not sharp . I do have experience driving trucks and fire equipment. Safe travels. Thanks Michael, are you thinking about doing the install yourself? I have to find out what the 2015 Precept has and what mine doesn’t. The front replacement stabilizer and steering stabilizer should not be a big deal. Thanks, I have a 2020 Alante 26X that I installed, front and rear road Master sway bars. These were not difficult to DIY but be aware that for the track bar you will likely need an impact wrench. I would suggest that anyone who is just starting out driving a Class A motorhome on a Ford F53 chassis have this upgrade done. All three were easy after viewing the etrailer videos to … So thanks! But I have noticed on your videos that you “gun” the motor on acceleration and maybe if you would ease us some you might like it better. PS: I enjoyed the show regarding the comparison between gas and diesel. Fits Ford F53 Class A Motorhome 1990-97 Rear 1 1/2" sway bars Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushing Set. The vehicle will handle better tha without the mods but it can still be a handful depending on the strength of the wind. If you simply move the links from the outward set of holes to the inward set of holes (any handy person with some basic tools can do this), you reduce the lever distance, and thereby increase the function of the sway-bar. My 2015 Phoenix Cruiser is build on a Ford E-450 chassis with a V-10 and 5 speed transmission. We don't know if he's just trying to control sway, or if he's having handling problems. We bought our 02 Damon Intruder last year and after one short trip and rubberized arms we started the upgrade process. I came across your Roadmaster YouTube visit. No couple is that happy all the time. The one RV video where your wife was alone in Joshua tree for the night had me a bit worried. Roadmaster vs. Hellwig Sway Bars for E450 Class C - Page 2 - iRV2 … I was looking to purchase a new 2015 Fleetwood Discovery 40X that was on sale for $189,000. Love it. Wynn’s…you got it going on now. I installed it several months ago before a trip into the GA, NC mountains with a toad. I have not driven it since the rear bar was installed and am hoping for a silver bullet. We didn’t go with Roadmastet sway bar, but opted for a Blue Ox instead. Have they finished the Dog House insulation package yet? Thanks. Hey Ed, this is not the T&A show. I have a Tiffin Allegro 2005 Motorhome and it is loosy-goosy and I am investing in purchasing these items. Definitely need a fairly long breaker bar for the really tight bolts- and getting them good and tight when put back on. My complaint is there is no vent fan in the bedroom, our Vesta had one and it helped move air and more importantly it served as a “noise machine” when sleeping in loud places. Overall the bedroom A/C works fine as the rear unit blower is to all the rear vents. I lived in Washington state for 30 years. Comments like this make us smile ear to ear, safe travels and happy holidays! Lol, Not notic but should read noise. I have tried several front-end soltiins, but perhaps a rear sway bar… It is a Dodge and Dodge products wander. That makes for a much more relaxing drive and eliminates the whiteknuckling. Prior to purchasing, the test drive demonstrated some sway and self-determined steering. Great for class A and class C motorhomes… Ford E450 Class-C RV; Ford F53 Class-A RV + 14-18K GVWR; 20-22K GVWR; 24-26K GVWR; Freightliner XC I-Beam; Monaco / Roadmaster + Chassis Upgrades. 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Settings on them and install drive probably because the only motorhome I will try Koni FSD shocks the and. And precise steering the trip up included Interstates, narrow Mountain roads and severe weather Bounder next!... The insulation kit for the buck first of the big diesel ride is much improved, stable!

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